Growing up in Portugal, going to the café was more than a daily ritual - it was a way of life. It was where dads grabbed breakfast and a caffeine boost before work, where mums caught up between daily chores, and where friends met before heading to university or a night out. At every moment, a cake or pastry would be paired with an espresso or latte. The choice was always wide and tempting — from the delicate palmier in all its varieties to the modest bolo de arroz or the indulgent bola de Berlim.
But one favourite has always united genders and generations: the pastel de nata.This pastry is as ubiquitous and unanimous as black socks. Beyond its singular combination of crisp pastry and smooth custard, its neat shape and size make it perfect for either a midday snack or a cheeky treat. Some devour it in two bites. Others, like the child I once was, scoop out the custard with a little spoon.
One of the true joys of my life has been seeing the pastel de nata spread across the world, especially in the UK. When I first moved to London, finding one meant venturing into the city’s scattered “Little Portugals” that are the Portuguese patisseries, delis and shops scattered around the city.
From the late 2010s, the pastel de nata began to conquer the high street. Nando’s helped popularise Portuguese flavours, aided by the country’s growing tourist appeal and Britain’s openness to new tastes. Now, every major chain - from Pret A Manger to Costa - sells it, as do all the big supermarkets. Dedicated outlets like Santa Nata, Café de Nata and Nata & Co followed suit. Even French patisserie Paul made room between its croissants and macarons. The quality varies, but the pastry’s triumph is complete: it’s no longer impudently called the “Portuguese custard tart.”
So when Tesco recently announced a savoury pastel de nata as part of its summer range, I wasn’t shocked or offended. Inspired by the real thing, this 400g “indulgent savoury tart” features puff pastry filled with “a rich and creamy mature Cheddar custard with a caramelised finish.” Let’s be honest, it sounds more like a quiche. But that’s fine. Italians probably wince every time they hear about pineapple on pizza. This, I think, is simply another stage in the pastel de nata’s global journey.
Once a recipe guarded by 19th-century monks in Lisbon, the pastel de nata has evolved into a truly international delicacy. Its newer forms - chocolate, fruit, even vegan - mirror the world’s shifting tastes. To paraphrase Socrates: the pastel de nata was born Portuguese but has become a food of the world. And perhaps, like all great traditions, that’s how it stays alive.
Quick bites:
Savoury Pastel De Nata
https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/uk/food/a70982331/tesco-savoury-pastel-de-nata/
The Pastel de Nata boom
The Pastel de Nata Bonbon
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1878450X19300320
